Tsukishima Monja Street
Tsukishima Monja Street is the best place to go for okonomiyaki and monjayaki in Tokyo. There are over 75 restaurants on one street, all serving more or less the same dishes!
What is Okonomiyaki?
Okonomiyaki’s often called a Japanese pancake, but it’s only really like a pancake because it’s flat and round. It’s one of my favourite Japanese dishes! It’s made of shredded cabbage mixed with batter, egg and whatever toppings you like (the name means “whatever you like”). It’s fried on a flat grill, flipped over, then drizzled with delicious okonomiyaki sauce, which is similar to the sauce on takoyaki or yakisoba (savoury sauce, a bit like Worcestershire or brown sauce). It’s also topped with tasty Japanese mayo, bonito flakes (dried fish flakes) and dried seaweed flakes.
I don’t know why more Japanese restaurants abroad don’t have okonomiyaki – it’s really tasty! My favourite toppings are cheese and mochi – the rice cake melts and goes really well with the gooey cheese.
You either cook your own at the table, or the staff cook it for you. It’s always fun to cook your own!
Be prepared your clothes will smell of cooking afterwards…! (It’s good that most Japanese hotels supply fabric freshener…!).
What is Monjayaki?
Monjayaki is the Tokyo version of Okonomiyaki. It’s essentially the same ingredients but runnier, and eaten off the grill with small spatulas. To be honest, it doesn’t look like the most appealing dish!
Many restaurants on monjayaki serve both monjayaki and okonomiyaki. Some of them also have yakisoba and other dishes that can be cooked on a grill.
Off the Beaten Track
I feel like Monja Street’s a slightly off the beaten track place to eat in Tokyo. Whenever I’ve been, I haven’t seen any other foreign tourists there, and not many restaurants had English menus outside. However, they often have English menus if you ask for one. Just say: “Eigo no menu ga arismasu ka?”, or “Eigo no menu?”.
When to Go
Most of the restaurants on Monja Street are open every day, and most of them are open for lunch as well as dinner in the evening. I’ve been on weekdays and there’s no need to reserve – there are so many restaurants that you’re sure to find a spot at one of them!
If you go during the day, you might spot a local man who often walks his pet giant tortoise along the street!
Daruma Okonomiyaki
My personal recommendation is Daruma Okonomiyaki (above). There are a couple of branches along Monja Street, and I’ve also seen one in Asakusa (but you’ve got to go to Monja Street for the full experience!). It’s only a small chain though, so don’t let that put you off!
Daruma serves okonomiyaki as well as monjayaki, together with other grilled side dishes and yakisoba. They also have an extensive drinks menu. Like most teppanyaki restaurants, it’s a casual, relaxed place with grills on the table so you can relax and enjoy the evening with a few drinks. Kampai! The staff can cook for you, or you can cook your own, whichever you prefer.
The reason I like Daruma is because they cater to dietary requirements and allergies. By default, the okonomiyaki mix contains shrimp, but you can simply ask for it to be made without it, and they’re very accommodating. You can see it in my video below.
See What it’s Like
Take a walk along Monja Street with us in my video:
Melon Pan
Melon pan’s one of my favourite Japanese treats! It doesn’t taste of melon; it has a soft inside and cookie-like harder shell, like a melon. It’s not particularly delicious, but there’s just something satisfying about it.
There are two melon pan bakeries on Monja Street. The one that’s considered the best is Kyuei Melon Pan, and the other one has a greater variety of flavours.
How to Get There
The quickest way to get to Monja Street from central Tokyo is taking the metro to Tsukishima Station. It’s only 8 minutes on the metro from Yurakucho Station, which is a couple of minutes’ walk from Tokyo Station.
You can also get there easily from Toyosu and Odaiba. It’s 6 minutes on the metro from Toyosu Station, which is where TeamLab Planets is. Or you can walk – it’s a pleasant, half hour walk over some bridges (lovely in the evening!).
What’s Nearby
Monja Street’s not far from these attractions – here are links to my videos with all the info:
- TeamLab Planets
- Small Worlds Tokyo
- Toyosu Fish Market and Senkyaku Banrai (with a fantastic, free rooftop footbath!).
Plan Your Tokyo Itinerary
If you need help getting your Tokyo itinerary under control, my Japan Trip Planning Deck has a card for each attraction in Tokyo, plus day trips and food (including Monja Street!):
