Exploring Gion
Gion is the geisha district of Kyoto. It’s a lovely area to explore and see lots of traditional Japanese wooden houses (machiya) and old streets.
I love just wandering around the old streets of Gion and soaking up the atmosphere. If you want to see beautiful historic Japanese streets, this is the place to go! The houses are so private and closed-off, with bamboo blinds and wooden slats. There’s a real air of mystery and secrets! It’s probably just my imagination, knowing this is where geisha live and work – in reality the buildings are probably perfectly everyday and mundane inside, but it’s fun to explore – it’s like nowhere else.
Traditional Japanese Streets
In Gion I found the old streets I’d been looking for in Kyoto. I much preferred it to the Sannenzaka / Ninnenzaka area near Kiyomizudera Temple, which are always so busy. It’s slightly less crowded and touristy and has so much more atmosphere. They’re fairly close together so you can easily wander between Gion and the Kiyomizudera area in one day.
When to Visit
Many guidebooks recommend strolling through Gion in the evening. I’m sure it’d be amazing at night-time, with the lights reflected in the canals and a real magical atmosphere. I’d love to visit as it’s getting dark (my favourite time of day whenever we’re travelling!).
Where to See Geisha in Kyoto
If you want to spot geisha in Kyoto, Gion is where they live and work. There are lots of high-end restaurants and tea houses. Gion Corner is the famous, grand theatre where you can watch maiko (trainee geisha) perform. The ticket prices for foreigners are actually pretty reasonable.
There are signs around Gion telling tourists not to touch geisha and to treat them with respect. I can’t believe that they have to tell you not to tug on their sleeves – like anyone else, geisha are busy at work and it seems natural to respect their privacy. I’d love to spot one but have never been in luck. Later on in the day and in the evening is probably when you’re more likely to catch a glimpse.
Apparently a lot of geisha you see are actually just tourists dressed up! You can pay to wear a kimono, wig and have your make-up done if you fancy being transformed into a geisha yourself. Unlike the numerous kimono rental shops, I didn’t chance upon any of these places, so if that’s something you want to do, I’d recommend researching beforehand and maybe even pre-booking if you can.
Shirakawa-Minami Dori
I’d heard that “the loveliest street in the whole of Asia” can be found in Gion. Of course, I was intrigued and we had to set out to find it!
The street is Shirakawa-Minami Dori. We came across it from the east, where it meets Shinbashi Dori on a bridge. At the fork in the road is the small shrine you can see in the video. On one side is a street with trees and a canal, and the other is a small street with old wooden houses and iconic Japanese blinds. There are several restaurants – I didn’t try any of them but have heard that, as you’d expect, restaurants in this area are fairly high-end and pricey.
It really is very lovely and very picturesque, with lots of people dressed in yukata posing for photos!
Streets Closed to Tourists
Since spring 2024, several streets in Gion have been closed to tourists. They’re small, residential backstreets – the people living and working there were being disturbed by the noise and (understandably!) didn’t like people taking photos while they were going about their everyday lives.
However, the main street and other backstreets are still accessible, and Gion’s definitely still worth visiting!
How to get to Gion
The closest station to Gion is Gion-Shijo, and everything’s easily walkable from there. As I mentioned, you could combine Gion with the rest of Southern Higashiyama, as they’re close together.
In the past, I’ve walked to Gion from where we were staying near Kyoto Station. It’s not a quick walk; about 2 miles, depending on how many detours you take! But you can take a route along the bank of the Kamogawa River, which is very pleasant on a sunny day.
I’d recommend just wandering the backstreets – it’s fun to get lost and find yourself alone in quiet streets where people live!
Make sure you catch Gion Corner, the famous theatre. The main road in Gion is Hanami-Koji Dori, and you easily find all the backstreets from there. The “loveliest street in Asia” (Shirakawa-Minami Dori) is the other side of Shijo Dori, which is a fairly major road with shops and restaurants. Before I first went to Kyoto, I’d expected the whole of Kyoto to be like this – but it does function as a modern, everyday city as well; the old and lovely areas tend to be in pockets.
Video: A Stroll Through Kyoto
In this video, join us for a walk around, including Gion, to see how Kyoto is’t crowded everywhere, just the popular areas!
More Kyoto Videos
There are lots more ideas for things to do in Kyoto in this playlist on YouTube – I hope you enjoy them and find them useful. There are new Japan videos on my channel every Thursday.
And if you’re planning a trip to Japan, there are lots of helpful tips in my 300 page Japan guide book:
